Lab-grown diamonds are gemstones that are manufactured by scientists in a laboratory. They have the same chemical structure as natural diamonds and are physically and optically identical to natural diamonds.
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Lab-grown diamonds: a little bit of history
The first scientist to discover that diamonds are made of pure carbon was Sir Isaac Newton in the 17th century. However, his discovery was viewed with suspicion because diamonds appeared different compared to other forms of carbon, such as graphite, and later in 1797, an English scientist named Smithson Tennant made a groundbreaking discovery that confirmed that diamonds were tetrahedron-shaped bonded carbon atoms subjected to intense heat and pressure.
1940: the birth of lab-grown diamond technology
Following the Tennessee experiment, many attempts were made to convert various inexpensive forms of carbon into diamonds, and by the 1940s, General Electric Research Laboratories became the center of such research. The company brought together researchers from chemistry, physics, and industrial engineering to further develop diamond synthesis technology.
At that time, GE Research Laboratories could only heat carbon to about 3,000°C (5,430°F) for a few seconds at a pressure of 3.5 gigapascals (510,000 psi.) When the project resumed after World War II in 1951, a high-pressure diamond group was formed, consisting of Francis P. Bundy and H. M. Strong.
Together, the team at GE Research Laboratories conducted experiments with tungsten carbide anvils in a hydraulic press, squeezing carbon-containing samples kept in Katrine containers into gaskets. At one point, the research team recorded the synthesis of the diamond, but the experiment could not be reproduced due to uncertainty about the synthesis conditions, and the diamond later proved to be a natural diamond used as a seed.
HPHT technology
The High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) technique uses three main press designs to provide the pressure and temperature required to produce synthetic diamonds in the laboratory: the belt press, the cubic press, and the split-ball (bar) press.
After placing diamond seeds in the bottom of the press, the press is heated internally to over 1400°C to melt the solvent metal. The melted metal dissolves the high purity carbon source, which is then transported to the small diamond seeds and precipitated to form large synthetic diamonds. In addition to growing diamonds, HPHT technology can be used to enhance the color of diamonds to make them colorless, pink, green, blue or yellow.
CVD technology
Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) technology simulates the formation of diamonds in interstellar gas clouds. It was created in the 1980s, making it newer than the HPHT method and uses less pressure as well as smaller machines than the HPHT method.
The CVD method places diamond seeds in a vacuum chamber. The chamber is filled with carbon-rich gas and heated to nearly 1500 degrees Fahrenheit. These extremely high temperatures convert the gas into a plasma, resulting in the release of carbon fragments. These carbon fragments form layers on top of the diamond seeds, which eventually grow into diamonds.
1954: manufacturing of the first batch of lab-grown diamonds
H. Tracy Hall was the first to grow man-made diamonds through a reproducible, verifiable, and well-documented process. he first successfully synthesized diamonds on December 16, 1954, and announced it on February 15, 1955.
His breakthrough was the use of a "belt" press, which was capable of producing pressures above 10 GPa (1,500,000 psi) and temperatures above 2,000°C (3,630°F). The press uses a chlorite vessel with graphite dissolved in molten nickel, cobalt, or iron. These metals act as "solvent catalysts", both dissolving the carbon and accelerating its conversion to diamond. The largest diamond he produced was 0.15 millimeters (0.0059 inches) in diameter; it was too small to be visually perfect for jewelry but could be used as an industrial abrasive.
At the time of his discovery, Hall was a member of the Schenectady group at General Electric Research Laboratories.
1980: commercialization of lab-grown diamonds
Although largely based on technology developed by GE Research Laboratories and early scientists, gem-quality single-crystal synthetic diamonds produced by Sumitomo Electric Industries in the 1980s were the first commercially produced laboratory diamonds.
However, these synthetic diamonds were not developed for the jewelry industry, but for high-tech applications; primarily as heat sinks for semiconductor devices.
The different types of lab-grown diamonds you can get
Due to advances in diamond synthesis technology, laboratory-produced diamonds are becoming more and more popular. As a result, different types and subtypes of these stones have emerged on the global diamond market. These include
CVD diamonds
Lab-created diamonds obtained from the chemical vapor deposition process are usually classified as Type IIa diamonds. They have the highest chemical purity, no measurable traces of nitrogen or boron, and the highest thermal conductivity. Type IIa diamonds are usually colorless, gray, light brown, light yellow, or light pink, and are extremely rare among natural diamonds.
It is worth noting that CVD diamonds are usually priced 20-30% less than mined diamonds. So, if you buy a 1.5 carat diamond, you get a 2 carat CVD diamond.
HPHT diamonds
HPHT diamonds are made by subjecting carbon to extreme temperature and pressure (HPHT) and other special treatments to purify the carbon to 99.99%, and then the purified carbon is put into a diamond synthesizer where it takes 3 to 9 months to grow into a rough diamond.
The diamonds grown in the HPHT lab are usually amber, greenish-yellow, red, blue or pure colorless.
Existing lab-grown diamond manufacturers and what they are selling
The process of selecting a lab-grown diamond is a unique experience for each individual. While some people know exactly what they are looking for, others need more information to better understand their personal styles and preferences. So, before you commit to a lab-produced diamond manufacturer, be sure to research the company's background and reputation, business practices, shopping experience, and customer reviews.
Rolary
Rolary is an Italian company that specializes in making lab-grown diamond jewelry. With Rolary’s continuous innovation and technology advancement, it offers lab-grown diamonds of exceptional quality. Rolary lab diamonds are certified by professional institutions such as GIA and IGI.
All the products are made in-house through HPHT and CVD technology. With leading technology in the industry, Rolary aims to provide stunning lab-grown diamonds at an affordable price.
Lightbox Jewelry by DeBeers
The man-made diamonds by Lightbox Laboratories are produced by Element Six Laboratories, a De Beers company in London. The company uses chemical vapor deposition (CVD) technology to create blush pink, powder blue, and white lab-produced diamonds in interesting fashion jewelry.
Launched in September 2018, these standard lab-produced diamonds are available in the U.S. primarily through the Lightbox website and occasional pop-up retail locations. Prices range from $200 per quarter carat to $800 per carat.
Clear Origin
Clean Origin is a diamond jewelry business founded in 2017 that focuses on millennials and GenZ who have entered or are ready to enter the bridal jewelry market.
Clean Origin diamond production all uses Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) and High Pressure, High Temperature (HPHT) processes. Prices for their standard lab-produced diamonds range from $146 for 0.33 carats to $62,054 for 8 carats.
They offer 10 different diamond cuts: round, pear, cushion, heart, oval, emerald, princess, radiant, asscher, and marquise, and have the possibility to create your lab-grown diamond jewelry from scratch.
Diamanti by Quorri
Diamanti by Quorri is a Canadian-based luxury designer brand that produces handcrafted jewelry, lab-produced diamonds, hand-cultivated gemstones, and simulated diamonds.
Their lab-produced diamonds are sold under the Diamanti Pure® label and range in size from 0.25 to 4.00 carats. Of all their 10 diamond cuts, the round brilliant is the most readily available; the princess, cushion, radiant, emerald, oval, pear, marquise, asscher, and heart cuts are sold as limited editions.
Diamanti by Quorri starts at $8,999 for a 1.01 carat diamond and $38,999 for a 2.06 carat diamond, and they also offer custom-designed jewelry for your lab-produced diamonds.
Brilliant Earth
Brilliant Earth is a U.S.-based jewelry design company that sources and sells ethically sourced natural diamonds, lab-produced diamonds, and other gemstones.
Their collection of lab-produced diamonds includes round, oval, cushion, pear, princess, emerald, marquise, asscher, radiant, and heart sizes from 0.26 carats to 7 carats cut. Prices start at $300 but can go as high as $118,000 and they also offer the option of designing jewelry from scratch for your lab-produced diamonds.
Kimai
Kimai is a UK-based direct-to-consumer brand that creates custom jewelry using lab-produced diamonds and recycled gold. This jewelry is handmade in Antwerp, Belgium.
They market lab-produced diamonds directly to female consumers at prices ranging from $200 to $1200 and up. Their diamond cuts include round, pear, oval, and cushion. Kimai uses a monthly product placement model.
Ada Diamonds
Ada Diamonds is a luxury jewelry brand that offers custom jewelry with lab-produced diamonds. Their lab-produced diamonds are available in round, oval, cushion, princess, radiant, emerald, asscher, pear, marquis, and heart cuts, ranging in size from 1 carat to 5 carats and up.
Prices start at $4,750 but go up to $9,000 with provisions to purchase loose diamonds or diamonds in bridal or fashion jewelry.
The difference between lab-grown diamonds and natural diamonds
Because lab-grown diamonds are physically and chemically similar to natural diamonds, it is impossible for even a trained gemologist to distinguish them without the help of specialized equipment.
Distinguishing features of lab-grown and natural diamonds include:
Natural diamonds are formed in the Earth's mantle over billions of years, while lab-grown diamonds are formed in a laboratory over a period of 6 to 10 weeks.
Lab-created diamonds are grown in molten metal solutions; therefore, they contain
metal inclusions that can only be identified by magnification 10 times. Natural diamonds, on the other hand, contain inclusions such as feathers and crystals, as well as pinpoints left over from violent volcanic eruptions, bringing them closer to the earth's surface.
In addition, laboratory-produced diamonds come in white, yellow, blue, pink, and green, with color grades ranging from D to K. Natural diamonds, on the other hand, come in every conceivable color, with an infinite range of hues, tints, and saturations.
The cost of lab-grown diamonds in the USA in brief
The price of lab-produced diamonds is constantly changing. Three to four years ago, lab-produced diamonds were 23% to 25% more expensive than natural diamonds. Today, lab-produced diamonds are 30 to 50 percent cheaper than natural diamonds.
However, the cost of lab-produced diamonds depends on the cost of the diamond production technology. As this technology becomes cheaper, the final cost of lab-produced diamonds is becoming lower - a good example; according to a report commissioned by the Antwerp World Diamond Center, the current cost per carat to produce CVD lab-produced diamonds is $300 to $500, compared to 2008 prices of carat was US$4,000.
Lab-produced diamonds are a rapidly growing trend in this industry. Younger diamond buyers are being attracted to them for reasons of price, transparency, and environmental protection. Notably, this segment of the diamond market is currently growing at an annual rate of 15 to 20 percent, according to the Antwerp World Diamond Center (AWDC).
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